How to Replace the Starter on a 2002-2007 Honda Accord with 2.4L Engine in 20 Minutes

2002 through 2007 honda accord with the

2.4 liter engine starter replacement i'm

brian essa from how to out of modify

milwaukee step by step through the

process of changing out the starter so

the labor time when this is about two

hours but we can do this in about 20-25

minutes doing and the techniques i'm

about to show you i wanted to share a

few the part numbers to let you know

that there will be links for them in the

description the video along with the

tools the first thing you're going to

want to do is disconnect a negative

battery cable and then tuck it off to

the side that way it doesn't come back

in contact then we're gonna remove the

top engine cover here it's just held on

with two acorn nuts they're ten

millimeters take the two nuts off and

you're going to lift the cover straight

up and it has a little rubber grommet

also holding it on then you can set it

aside so in the next step we need to

take the intake plenum off and remove it

but we're gonna leave everything

connected air box hoses vacuum lines

switches everything will be connected to

it we're not going to disconnect any of

that we're just gonna remove the bolts

and fasteners to get the fasteners off

i'm using a 12 millimeter socket with a

little extension and I'm using my

Milwaukee cordless ratchet here this

makes quick work of this this is not

necessary or need it but you if you have

these I recommend using if you haven't

seen them I recommend checking them out

I'll link it up in the description so

you're gonna remove the five fasteners

starting next to the throttle body and

working your way towards the passenger

side of the vehicle so you're gonna run

across three bolts and two nuts when you

take these fasteners off since we

disconnected the negative battery cable

we're gonna need to reset the clock so

I'll show you how to do that later on in

the video now that we got all the

fasteners for the plenum on bolted but

there's one more support bracket we need

to unbolt if you follow down here you'll

see this black bracket you follow down

and you remove the 12 millimeter bolt

there get to that you can just flex the

radiator hose slightly out of your way

and you can get to that fastener and

take that out once you got that removed

now you can just pull the plan them

straight towards the radiator and angle

it off to the side like this now you can

see how much room you got in here to get

to the starter now to hold the plenum

out of our way I just use the bungee

cord wrapped it around the filler neck

of the radiator and hooked it back on

here and that held it out of the way

there's not a whole lot of pressure on

it so you not to worry about breaking

the radiator off now we can get to the


connectors here on the starter you can

pull off the the signal wire here now we

need to peel the rubber boot back that's

holding the the main power wire on here

so you're gonna peel that rubber boot

back and underneath it's going to be a

12 millimeter nut the wire loom here

will be clipped on to a little bracket

and then we're also going to unplug the

knock sensor here by squeezing the tab

and pulling the knock sensor connector

off like this and then once you get this

all on bolt it this stuff will all flip

out of our way to make it a little

easier to work with I'm going to remove

these two vacuum lines here so I'm just

gonna pull them off one you pull off to

the off the port like this and then the

second one you just pop it out of its

little bracket that it's held into and

you can push it off the side and it

makes it easier to get your hands down

there to work and also to get to this a

little electrical connector wire loom

holder here you just squeeze the little

tabs on the side and then once you've

got it squeezed you just give it a

little push and that'll make it pop out

of the wire loom holder here now using a

12 millimeter wrench we're going to

unscrew the main power feed you want to

make sure that negative cable there is

disconnected it will arc out right here

if you don't do that so we can pop this

little boot rubber boot back and once

you get the boot pop back you can use a

12 millimeter wrench and you can crack

the nut free and spin that off now you

can take the wiring and just tuck it off

out of your way now this long

funny-looking bolt here we're going to

remove this one here it's a 14

millimeter I'm just using a 14

millimeter semi deep socket with a flex

head ratchet here and it's a straight

ratchet it made it easiest to to get in

here using a street flex head ratchet

you put it on the on the fastener and at

it and now that you're on the fastener

at an angle here you should be able to

just pull straight upwards and that'll

loosen the fastener and most the times

what I've run across this once you get

this crack free a couple threads with

the ratchet then you can stick your hand

back there and you can spin the rest of

the fastener out by hand if you live in

the Rust Belt or somewhere where there's

a lot of corrosion you may have to you

know ratchet it all the way out to the

larger 17 millimeter bolt down here in

the bottom what I do is I use a 17

millimeter socket with a wobbly like

this and I use a about a three-foot long

extension this is all half-inch drive if

you use 3/8 you can do it but it

Lexa's the Lighting's a lot harder to

get off so you can see how it down in

there and I work on it out here I'm

using a pretty long half inch drive

ratchet here the longer the more

leverage you have to crack that bolt

free it can be really tight and tough so

once you crack it free a few threads

just like the bottom ones you usually be

able to spin them out by hand if not you

can switch over to a power tool and

that's exactly what I did I used my

little I switched over to a 3/8 wobbly

with an extension and I'm using my

little impact gun here this is the

stubby impact gun allows you to get in

these tight areas and spin that fastener

out the reason why I switched over is

because the bowl has a lot of threads

and it takes forever doing it by hand

now that you got the fastener removed

you can go ahead and reach down here and

start pulling the starter out just take

your time not to snag it on anything and

just pull it out just like this now

we're ready to reinstall our new

replacement starter so you're gonna

slide it straight back into position

exactly the way we took it out stab it

into the hole on the bell housing once

you got to stand in there then I

recommend you start both bolts by hand

so you're gonna take both bolts and spin

them in by hand and then we're gonna

what I do is I'll switch over to a power

tool and I'll run the bottom bolt in

first so you start both bolts what's the

bottom bolt is run in and pretty much

just snug we're gonna torque it down in

a second but what I'm gonna do is do the

top bolt here I'm going to run it down

by hand and tighten it up by hand

there's not a lot of room to get torque

wrenches and stuff back here and get an

accurate torque on it so I just tighten

them down by hand until they're good and

snug you kind of use the gauge of how

tight they were when you took it off to

how tight you put it back on so you

tighten the top bolt first and then now

that the top bolts tight now I switch

back over to my ratchet here with the

wobbly with the half-inch drive and I'll

tighten it there I'll final snug it up

with the with the hand ratchet and

basically I put it as tight as how I

felt to come off now we're gonna hook up

all the electrical connectors so we're

gonna put the main power feed on plug in

the knock sensor plug in the wire loom

holder and also plug in the smaller

cylinder wire when you're putting the

fastener back on to tighten up the main

power cable here you want to tighten it

up until it's snug and about a quarter

turn you don't want a whole lot of

pressure on it it's made out of brass it


break off easily on the starter so just

snug it up until there's no play left in

the cable while you're down here you can

also plug the vacuum lines back in that

we took off back onto the porch and back

into their little holders and then we're

gonna swap out the gasket here

so I've reused these gas before in the

past but I don't recommend that they do

leak so that's why I'm replacing with a

new one I recommend you do the same this

is the part number here I'll link this

up in the description the video also so

we'll slip on our brand new plenum

gasket here remove our bungee cord and

then we can go ahead and push the intake

in or the plenum in where it's a little

bit now we can plug the the vacuum lines

on the ports down below and make sure

that they're risa cured now we're ready

to slip the plenum back over the studs

here so you'll slide it on into position

make sure the the hose here is not

tucked underneath it and then slide it

on and now I recommend you start all the

fasteners by hand so that's what I do I

start all bolts by hand so there's gonna

be three bolts and two nuts up up here

on the top of the plenum here and then

we're gonna go down below and start the

one bolt that held the bracket at the

bottom of the manifold to make things go

faster I use my Milwaukee cordless tool

here to run all the fasteners in until

the snug I'm not torquing them down with

the tool I'm just running them in till

they touch and if you notice I started

in the middle and I went left right left

right in a crisscross pattern until

they're all the fasteners we've drawn in

until they're snug and then once they're

all drawn in the snug we're gonna switch

over to a torque wrench over torque this

down don't forget to tighten the bottom

bolt down there you can go ahead and

tighten that one all the way down so now

we're gonna set up our torque wrench to

16 foot-pounds the torque on it is

pretty low so we're gonna torque this

down to 16 foot-pounds we're gonna start

in the middle again and we'll torque

this one down then we're gonna do the

same thing we're going in a crisscross

pattern so I went to the left here and

once that one's torqued and I went back

right now I'm gonna go back left torque

this one down and then go far right here

and torque this one down all at 16


now that the intake plenum is torqued

back down we can take the top engine

cover and line it up with the little

studs on here and a little rubber

grommet and then and then uh give it a

little press to the seat the rubber

garment and then once you get that done


Head Start the two acorn nuts and you

can just snug these up and just as a

reminder I would link up all the parts

and tools I use in this video in the

description now that we got the top

cover bolted up we're going to take the

negative cable and then go ahead and

reinstall that and tighten that up and

then we're gonna fire this sucker off

and make sure everything works and we're

also going to reset the clock and I'll

walk you through the steps of doing that

now that we've got a starting and

running vehicle we need to reset the

clock before you send it back to the

customer or for yourself and to do that

we're going to press the sound button

here and hold it until you hear an

audible beep once you hear an audible

beep then you're going to use the number

four and number five here to adjust your

hour and minutes so so number four here

oh just the hour once you get that set

then you move over to the minutes to set

your minutes once you got them both set

to where you like you just push the

sound button one more time and that's

the clock is set

I'm Brian nesic from how to automotive I

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