a

How to Replace a Front Wheel Bearing

hey guys chrisfix here today we're

working on a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer

and I want you to listen real quick that

rumbling noise is a bad wheel bearing

and what it's causing it's causing abs

and traction control light as well

because in that wheel hub assembly is

the ABS sensor so you can see the ABS

and traction control lights are on as

well as that little wrench in the

information center so I'm going to go

scan the computer real quick and it'll

get the exact codes and will verify that

the front driver side wheel bearing is

no good so I'm going to hit the read

codes button I'm going to do an all

system module check and we'll let that

go and see what codes we get okay so we

have a few codes we want to check out

first one code see one two three three

you can see the frequently reported fix

is to replace the left front wheel

bearing assembly check out this other

one see one one five five left wheel

bearing assembly replacement again so

using a scan tool and more advanced

vehicles is a possible method to check

the wheel bearing in this case since the

ABS is built into the wheel bearing and

the ABS is no longer functioning it's

going to let you know when the wheel

bearings bed now let's Jack the car up

and physically check the wheel bearing

for play so with the vehicle safely

supported on jack stands and I use the

Jack as extra protection and with the

rear tires blocked off so the car won't

roll we could go check out the front

wheel bearing and make sure that is our

problem I'll show you the player really

quickly and I have a video on how to

diagnose a bad wheel bearing so if you

want to make sure just go check out that

video real quickly but obviously this

bearing is shot so to replace this wheel

bearing I'll be using a brand new memo

tech wheel bearing hub assembly it comes

with everything you need including the

ABS harness and best of all it's going

to get this car back on the road so

let's go install it so this process is

going to apply to mercury Fords and

pretty much any vehicle that is

front-wheel drive and has a bolt in hub

bearing assembly the first step is going

to be get the center cap out if you get

it out without taking the wheel off

great we're going to take the wheel off

and pop it out reason why is because

you're going to have to get to the axle

nut

so we'll remove the tire you just want

to get behind here and pull that metal

ring out watch your face but that

doesn't pop out and hurt you

and once that metal ring is out just get

a flat head screwdriver lightly pry it

and that will pop right out

so now we'll put the tire back on and

throw on a couple of lug nuts so I put

on three lug nuts now we're going to

lower the tire onto the ground now to

remove the axle nut in here we're going

to be using one of these axle nut

sockets this is a 32 millimeter

now when getting an axle nut off these

things are on there tight so you're

going to need a breaker bar and then

maybe even a cheater bar on your breaker

bar it really depends if you have air

tools use the air tools will make it

nice and easy to get off I'm going to

try using the breaker bar first okay

that's not that bad sometimes these

things are a real pain to get off that

actually wasn't that bad

now with that loosened we could raise

the vehicle take the tire off and move

on to the next steps after taking the

tire off

I always slide the tire underneath the

car for extra safety so now we can take

the axle nut off the rest of the way you

might need to take a screwdriver and put

it in the slots of the rotors to hold

your brakes in place so just stick the

screwdriver right in there and I'll give

you enough resistance take that right

off again air tools would make this a

lot easier but if you don't have this

just goes to show you can do it without

air tools there we go got the axle nut

off the next step is to take off the

brake caliper and rotor we're going to

do all this in one step so we don't have

to remove the brake pads and all we need

to do is remove the two caliper bracket

bolts ones right up here and the other

ones right down here so now I'm going to

use a 21 millimeter run a breaker bar

break the top bolt loose

break the bottom bolt loose with both

bolts loose now we can take them out all

the way with our ratchet good and we'll

go to the top here the top bolt up now

we're going to add a bucket slide the

bucket underneath and this is where

we're going to put our hole brake

caliper and brake rotor assembly and

we'll leave it just like that so with

the wheel straight and not at an angle

get a big hammer and we're going to hit

the axle stud inwards you don't want to

hit directly on this so get your axle

nut screw it on just so that's flush and

you can see the axle is moving inwards a

little bit and that's just going to

break the axle free so when we try to

remove the bearing hub assembly it won't

be stuck to the axle good now we have

just three bolts holding the bearing hub

assembly in so you can see here there's

one there's two and on the other side

there's three right there always try to

make things easier for yourself and work

with the car so to get more access to

the bolts will turn the knuckle now

we're going to crack the two hub bolts

on this side loose with the breaker bar

because they're going to be really tight

we'll do the bottom bolt first and the

socket is a fifteen millimeter

good now we'll do the top good and now

we could use our ratchet to remove the

bottom bolt completely good and now we

can do the same for the top bolt loosen

that up good now the other bolt is on

the other side so we're just going to

turn this

we'll loosen it with our breaker bar

and then we could go in there with our

ratchet and loosen it up the rest of the

way so all three bolts are out of the

bearing we're going to push this this

way so it's straight now we have this

slide hammer kit you can rent this for

free at your auto parts store you can

buy it it's a very useful tool to have

the link in the description to where you

get it and you just want to get one of

these

this mounts right up to the hub slides

right in then you use your lug nuts

tighten it down all the way and once

these are tightened down all the way

we'll put our slide hammer on it you

know the slide hammer just screws right

onto this and then all you need to do is

yank this as hard as you can multiple

times and it'll pop the hub right off

before we go yanking the hub off don't

forget to remove the ABS sensor right

here so just go in here remove that

wiggle this this should come out just

like so and now that that's disconnected

we could pull the hub bearing assembly

out

now this is being really stubborn so

we're going to use some penetrating

fluid

right at that seam there where the hug

meets the knuckle if my home made

penetrating fluid doesn't work I don't

know what will listen to that sizzle

okay here it comes

okay and that's what happens when you

let this dealership replace your hub

bearing assembly this bearing was

replaced before and I would have had no

trouble getting it off if they just add

a little bit of anti-seize on top of

that the replaced bearing went bad

quickly so they must have used a junk

bearing which is why we're replacing it

with a good one I don't want this to

discourage you this was the most

difficult bearing I've ever had to take

off but we still got it off with a

hammer and some penetrating fluid we're

going to be using a nice ease on the

back of the new bearing that way it'll

actually come out if it ever needs to be

replaced again which it probably won't

but you never know and that's all it

takes a little bit of anti-seize right

on there and right on here and that

would have popped right off no problem

instead I had to spend forever trying to

knock that thing off now on this surface

you want to get some sandpaper something

a little bit abrasive and just sand it

down a little bit just going to clean

off the surface make sure it's smooth

you can use like a 400 or 600 grit in

this case I'm just using this abrasive

sponge it's like a scotch-brite type

thing once you get the outside clean

don't forget the inside

you're just removing any of that rust

any unevenness again we're going to take

our anti-seize and we're going to put

some right on these threads here that'll

just prevent that from locking up that

didn't lock up but just in case next

time it'll be easy to pop the axle out

the other thing we want to go in here

just a little bit of anti-seize around

the whole edge and that just prevents

binding of the metals so we have the ABS

sensor from the old bearing our new

bearing comes with a nice new ABS line

and that's what we're going to replace

it with so right up here there's an 8

millimeter screw take that out this will

pop off just pop it out of here over

here we'll need a screwdriver

sit your flathead screwdriver in here

pop this lip open like so pull it up

this just pops out and then it goes up

into the engine bay so we're up in the

engine bay if we look down here here's

our ABS wire we could pull this all the

way through follow the wire to where it

attaches the pigtail and then we have

the pigtail right here and you just push

down the tab with your thumb and remove

it just like that

now with the ABS wire disconnected and

remove we could put our new hub bearing

in when installing the hub bearing pay

attention to which side the ABS wire is

coming out of just slide it on give it a

little wiggle to get it on the spindle

here might help to hold up the axle so

you can slide this in and you can see

our ABS line is right to the side here

that's where we want to be it's going to

click in right in here leave that for

now right now we want to make sure these

holes line up so I have our three wheel

bearing bolts and you can see the head

lock tight on them so I'm going to put

some blue which is removable lock tight

right where the red was just like so and

that just prevents vibrations from

loosening them up we're also going to

talk them down to 75 foot-pounds of

torque so we'll start with the top one

here make sure it lines up

just write it in by hand and actually go

in pretty far by hands assuming that you

have this aligned properly there we go

the next one will do is the bottom one

good and the last one will do is all the

way on the other side okay so now we're

going to get our torque wrench and we're

going to torque all three of those bolts

down to 75 foot-pounds one that's two

and then for the third one we'll turn

the wheel and that's three the new

bearing is in so with that torqued into

place now we can run our ABS wire that

pops into there and this let's mount it

right to here so the next thing is we're

going to snap it into here so this gets

snapped in here this goes right here

just like that now we're bringing this

up here

snap this right in and this goes up into

the engine apartment so we'll come up

into the engine compartment grab our ABS

wire that'll snap right in it's good now

with the wheel bearing bolted in and the

ABS wire connected let's get the brakes

back on now we have our two caliper

bolts see where the red loctite was at

some blue loctite

just line the calper up with the bolt

and tighten it to the same thing for the

bottom bolt get in this place and hand

tighten it

now once both bolts are in place tighten

them down with the ratchet the same for

the bottom once we're done tightening

the caliper bolts we could torque them

down to 100 foot pounds each do the

bottom first and the top now I don't

know if you saw it but my greasy hands

got onto the brakes here so you want to

make sure you clean that off before you

put everything together now just snug

down your lug nuts before we lower the

car into the ground then we'll lower the

car on the ground and torque the lug

nuts to a hundred foot-pounds and then

we have one last step you want to get

your new axle nut and we're going to put

it on and torque it down I like to add a

little bit of blue loctite in here just

get that on there now we're going to

grab our torque wrench and we're going

to tighten this down to 190 foot-pounds

okay that's how you change the wheel

bearing in a Mercury Mountaineer or Ford

Explorer but this wheel bearing hub

assembly replacement will be similar on

all vehicles that use a Bolton wheel

bearing that has an axle that goes

through it so you'll have to remove the

axle nut so we have one last detail

line it up so it's even just give it a

pop like that all done now we could go

for a ride so we're going for a ride

the ABS and traction control lights both

went off the wheel bearing is nice and

silent and that's a job well done

hopefully this video is helpful if it

was remember to give it a thumbs up also

if you're not subscribed hit that

subscribe button what are you waiting

for in the description are going to be

all the tools I used in this video as

well as the bearing and at the bottom of

the video are going to be three similar

videos just in case you want to see it

on a different car or if you have a

press bearing

you