How to Change a Wheel Bearing (short and fast version)

so we're going to change the front

bearing on a 95 ford windstar this is a

front-wheel drive Ford this wheel

bearing change is going to be a pressed

bearing so you could use this method on

most press bearing cars with the car on

the ground you're going to take the axle

nut and loosen it using a 30 millimeter

socket so now now that's loose now we

can lift the car make sure you have the

back wheels chopped off and now we'll

take the tire off we'll put the tire

into the vehicle for even more

protection we're going to end up wanting

to get in here so we're not take the

brake the whole brake system off caliper

and bracket to get to to get the caliper

off the whole bracket and everything so

you want this whole thing to come off as

a unit there's a bolt here which you can

see caliper and then there's a bolt at

the bottom right there I suggest using a

little bit of PB Blaster or liquid

wrench on all these bolts that get me

take it off because they're going to be

hard to take off especially if they have

been touched before the caliper bolts

are a 15 millimeter breaker bar so now

the bottom one is broke time to get to

the top one now once you start finishing

the bottom bolt unscrewing the bottom

bolt and you pull it out the whole

assembly here is going to want to fall

off okay so now you have your whole

assembly off here which makes everything

really easy now we're going to hang it

I'm just hanging that like that and I

want to make sure that this brake line

isn't bent or kinked or anything you

don't want to damage that now we can

take off the rotor we're going to get

the axle nut off the rest of the way

and that's your Exel there's going to be

a little washer right here gently take

out so we turn the tire so you can get

access to the lower control arm here

there's the ball joint that connects the

lower control arm and we want to take

that off so that we could take the axle

off use the breaker bar again there we


this is an 18 millimeter ratchet there's

a bolt on this side as well

so you need to hold on to this bolt as

you spin that one so this is going to be

easier done with the air gun bolt came

out yep I wedged a screwdriver in here

to open up this gap with you know you

normally close it down with that that

bolt and then I just used the crowbar up

against the frame right here and push

down and now that's off now we're going

to pull the axle out

so we got the axle out of the way we're

disconnected from the ball joint on the

bottom control arm now we're going to

take off the tie rod so at this point

we're going to go take the castle nut

off so we have to get the pin out of

here pull that through using an 18

millimeter comes right off now we take a

hammer pop that off there's the next

bolt that we're going to get to it's

going to take off the this knuckle from

the strut we're going to get the ABS

sensor cable out of the way this is an 8

millimeter there you go that the strut

bolt is a 21 millimeter so we're gonna

want to remove the ABS sensor and I just

push it with your thumb don't hit this

don't do anything to break this these

are kind of expensive I tied the axle

out of the way so that it gives us more

room to try to shimmy this out okay the

whole hub is off now we could get to the

the bearing in here pop it out put the

new one on so we're going to take off

this C clamp or split ring or whatever

it's called there's a split ring in here

just use the pliers

you go so that's out I got the 30

millimeter ratchet to pop off this part

first so I'm going to hit it with a

hammer okay now this is out so there's a

lip right in here you see where the

bearing is you find the right size tool

the right size bearing press you put it

in drop the bolt in and then you find

the right size the bottom piece which

fits on the outside of the bearing like

so plate on top washer screw this down

so get your large socket you want to

tighten this baby down okay

finally the bearing has been completely

pressed out I'm gonna add some new

grease not a lot just enough to help the

new bearings slide in just a little bit

not a lot this side fits in better so

then we're gonna have all our bearing

press kits you see this fits perfectly

on the bearing and show you real quick

so that it sits on the outside edge so

when it presses it presses on the whole

bearing so you don't crimp anything you

don't mess anything up that's what you

want to make sure you have so that's

going to sit like that so after you get

it in there a little bit I have enough

with the red to that on and then put the

big bolt on and this just slowly presses


so there it's getting hard to turn

tighten it down you have to go too crazy

but I want to be snug we don't want

damage to baring so we look here and

that little c-clamp thing that goes

that's going to fit in there

see ring is going to fit perfectly and

then over here we can see that this fits

very nicely as well so the bearing is

pressed now we're going to press the hub

on the spindle it's going to fit in the

knuckle in the bearing like that so

we're going to press that way and add

just a tad of grease on here so here's

our little C clamp that's going to go in

here there's just a little groove that

fits into just like that and that's in

had to get a new bearing press piece

that fits this and we're actually going

to hammer this in lightly just like that

now just tighten this down same way we

did the press the bearing

you know fall look at that so here's how

far you'll tighten it you want to barely

be able to get a flathead screwdriver in

here now you just do everything in the

reverse order to put this back on which

I will show you if you want to watch it

if not then you know how to press a

bearing so let's do everything in the

reverse order and get this wheel back on

strut is in so with the strut on we're

going to get the axle back in okay so

that's locked in because you could turn

this and it turns that so the spindles

are lining up so let's get the lower

ball joint in right now slide that in

and tighten it down now we're not going

to tighten all the way we're going to

just tighten it so it's snug and then

we'll torque it later after we get the

other bolts in so now let's get the tie

rod in here that should slide right in

just like that 18 millimeters again get

snug down there good this one's pretty

simple it's a threaded hole get the

strut bolt in

now everything's in let's torque

everything I'm going to do the castle

nut on the tie rod first so I set the 46

and you tighten until it clicks just

like that when it clicks once you do it

again and then that's tight enough

remember that you have that cotter pin

and then open the cotter pin around the

nut like that this ball joint is 52

foot-pounds of torque good and then now

we want to set the strut bolt to a

hundred foot-pounds of torque

put your rotor back up quick helper good

the cover should slide on like that and

then you get your bolt top one in bottom

one in number the top one and then snug

the bottom one and tighten good now is a

good time to take your sensor and put it

back right there get on the good side of

the pull off now the last thing put on

is this washer which goes on like that

and then your hair bolt this gets

torqued to two hundred foot-pounds so

I'm going to just tighten this so that's

really tight on here that's not even 150

foot pounds yet you just want to make

sure that that's tight so you could put

the tire on you just want to tighten

these up

and now we're going to torque it 200 ah

now go for a nice easy ride and make

sure everything's good and you're done

you just change the wheel bearing like

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