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This Means Your Struts are Going to Fail

rev up your engines, today I'm gonna show you how to fix a worn-out suspension in

the case of this rav4 the customer was hearing noise in the Left Front and it

wasn't riding right, so I jacked it up in the air then crawled under and what do

we see hmm the top of this strut is all oily meaning that the strut is

probably leaking, let's check the other side well go to the other side and lo

and behold there's the strut and you can see the whole thing is dry

instead of being dark on the top it's dry so this one isn't leaking as you can

see on the leak inside, the bottom is dry but all the way up is wet, that means

that the strut inside is leaking and the hydraulic fluid is coming down now if

you want perfection in a ride you replace them in pairs you'd replace both

front struts, but whatever you do use quality ones I'm using the KYB, Monroe

or other brands they never seem to work all that long or last for a long period of

time, so I'm sticking KYBs these are made in Japan so we'll take off the tire

get it out of the way, and as you can see here it's all leaking we've got to replace it because

it's leaking away, now here's the replacement strut as you can see it

doesn't have the spring in the top assembly, so we have to remove the whole

strut from the car take it apart then put all the pieces on here and bolt it

back on the car, I'm bolting the torsion bar, bolt here taking these two big bolts

off and of course we have to remove the tie rod arm first so we can get working

room, and then when we flip it to the side it'll come on even so you get

snippers and we put them on a cotter pin and pull it out, then we remove the bolt

on top I'm lazy I'm using an air wrench it's a lot easier than

doing it by hand, now you can try to use a hammer hit that off but often they're

frozen on pretty solid so I use this puller tools it always works just fits in

on it, it just screws on the top of the bolt here and then when you tighten it

it pops right off, there it goes, now by swinging this

we can access all the little bolts we need take off all the parts that are

bolted to it, and as you can see now the hose and everything swings free so when we

pull this back it will go fine, and we take the torsion bar bolt off get that out of

the way, and then remove the two giant bolts that hold it together as you can

see now the whole assembly is released and we switched to the top where the

three mounting bolts are and take them out, we just got them off now the back

ones are harder to get to so I'm using this angled wrench to reach them get it

out I can't even use my impact there there's no room, they fit on and we gotta

pull harder but they come off then the whole assembly falls down and you take

it out here it is, now comes the hard part

you got to compress the spring I'm using these basic spring compressors now you

can buy a whole strut assembly in one, but they cost a fortune and the whole assembly

cost over three times what the good replacement costs without the spring and

assembly, generally the whole strut assemblies

are much cheaper made like the monroe quick struts I tried them they

didn't last long, they didn't ride right, I stick was replacing them with a

quality unit myself, now you stick the spring compressor on one side to squish

it down, put it on then tighten it a little, then go back and forth till you

get the tension off the top

now you can see why I'm using an air tool you can use ranches and do it by

hand, but it takes a lot longer doing it that way

get an electric impact wrench if you want those, we'll take these off too but

once these are tight you take the top off

wiggle it off, then the whole assembly comes off move all the parts and place

the spring assembly on top of the new one, now if you look close you'll see

there's a notch on the end of this and it fits right into the little groove all

then you took the top of the assembly bearing and put that back on there

you got to do some wiggling with these, huh they're done, before you go any

further put the top nut on so it doesn't come

all apart, now that's the tops tight you can start loosening the clamps on the

side little by little, do one side a little then the other go back again, now

you can take them off, then we fish it back through the bottom and bolt the top

on first, that's always a fun part a little wiggling but then you get it on

then put these three one two three back here just on somewhat snug so you can still

wiggle the assembly to get the bottom on, now you gotta slide this, then pull it

up wiggle and put the bolts in, to get them in you got to wiggle the this a lot

but eventually they'll slide in, once you have the top one in

the bottom one, you can wiggle it a little and it's easier cuz the tops in

and the bottom will slide in with a little jiggling and pushing, again you

can do this by hand but it's a lot more work, you get them tight and use a long

extension bar and socket you'll get them nice and tight, then bolt all the

pieces on like the torsion bar bolt, stick the tie rod arm back into its hole

you got to do wiggling but eventually it comes out through the hole where, then

tighten the nut on top of it and put in a new cotter pin, stick the pin in and

then pull it up on the other end with a pair of pliers so it doesn't come loose

bend it up that way it won't come out, and go back up to the top and tighten those

nuts on, put the tire back on and you're done, so now you know how to fix your own car

suspension when a strut wears out and starts leaking, so if you never want to

miss another one of my new car repair videos, remember to ring that Bell