DIY Bumper Repair

on this episode of paint society we're

gonna save this badly damaged bumper

from hitting yet another landfill

we'll be using basic tools and showing

you how to push out that dent

from the backside as well as using epoxy

to do the repair

we'll then focus on the front and we'll

shape this bad boy up

into primer and then send it into the

paint booth

can this possibly be the same exact

bumper that we started with

let's find out right now


what's going on everyone and welcome

back to another episode of paint society

the channel where the learning doesn't

stop when the video ends

today we're gonna save another bumper

from the landfill and go ahead

and repair it right now so as you can

see the bumper here

on the car is really damaged we got

almost about an inch and a half to two

inches worth of depth within that

dent so we're gonna go ahead and show

you the steps to repair it

now let's take a look at the tools that

we have for it all right so we

have the bumper bag we have a couple

dollies a flat hammer

harbor freight heat gun and that's

what's going to get us to get that dent

out so the first thing we want to do is

really heat up the backside we got it on

high our heat gun

and we're going to work the area not

just the area where the dentist

but we're going to work the surrounding

area for close

to two to three minutes to really heat

it up and really get it hot

and once you got it all heated up then

you're gonna go ahead and flip it over

take one of our dolly tools and we're

simply gonna push

out the dent from the back side

we can use a smaller end of the dolly to

really help get our body line where we

want it

apply some more heat if necessary and

switch dolly tools

i'm focusing on over pushing it i want

more of the bumper to be on the front

side that way

i can shape it with my bumper bag

then take some cold water and hold it on

the bumper

and this is going to ensure that it does

not warp back

into its original shape well once more

heat up the back side

in order to shape the front side we'll

then take our bumper bag

and hold it on the back side this bumper

bag will conform to the shape of the


and give us a solid backing so when we

go to hit it

to smooth out the highs and lows

we have a reinforced back

and you'll be pretty surprised at the

shape you get

you want to try to minimize the amount

of highs we have

if we have it just a touch below the


then we're going to be better off when

we go to put our epoxy on once more get

our cold

water and apply it to both sides so we

have our bumper on a stand and we have a

good foundation now there's a few ways

you guys can repair these

and they'll all work just the same we're

going to stay away from plastic

welding because it takes just a little

bit too long i can get a great repair

out of using some epoxy

i'm going to show you that but first

we're going to start sanding well as you

can see the plastic is right where we

need it to be

so now we're going to do a little

grinding to get it a little bit smoother


now we're going to take some 80 grit now

we never go this rough on plastic unless

we have an insane repair like this

where we just need to get it down

now we have a little bit of a high spot

still so we're going to use some heat

and push it down we don't want to grind

away all the plastic

we just want to make sure we have a

level surface


after you've done that fine tuning go

ahead with your 80 grit once more

and smooth it out even more

now take a look at our repair do you see

how this paint right here is not getting


that's because it's a low spot we don't

want to fill that all up with epoxy it's

just way too much

so go ahead furthermore add some heat

from the back and push it out

so as we use more heat you can see how

it opens up more

because the plastic is getting more

flush and some of the

plastic is actually burning away so this

is a good stopping point because we can

still use our epoxy and our patch

to fix this next we're going to take a

scrap bumper in the same material and

cut out a little area

to fill the hole

we're gonna really really heat it up and

fit it in from the back

we'll use heat on the back side and any

metal tool

to really push it in and melt it into

that opening


once more taking our two dollies to

smash it together

then we'll take the bumper off the stand

and further melt it in from the back


so we're almost ready for epoxy from the

back side now we have our plastic in

there but we need to smooth it out

in a surrounding area at least two to

three inches


now we have it all ready for epoxy you

might go through a little bit that's


this epoxy is very strong the epoxy

we're using is

fuser 100 ez this stuff is really good

it's really strong it will hold anything

together if you're having marriage

problems it will hold your marriage

together as well

to apply it you'll need the applicator

gun it equally pushes the glue

and the activator through the tube into

a mixing stick you want to press through

at least two to three inches to make

sure that the static tip

is mixing properly

you'll then want to be pretty liberal

with the epoxy

it's a very strong epoxy and it will not

give it'll give you a nice structural


right right where we need it then get

yourself a spreader

and just work it into every little area

make sure to go beyond the repair that's

why we ground out two to three inches


now there we go it might not look the

prettiest but it is very strong

let this sit for a good hour and a half

let it cure on its own

do not worry about the front just yet so

it's dried for about an hour and a half

and it's hard as a rock good to go now

let's start on the front side

now that the back is all rock solid we

can really really go aggressive on the

front side

and start to make the repair once again

we have 80 grit and we'll go ahead and

sand down and smooth things out

from any epoxy that's made its way



once again continuing to knock down any

of the high spots with a heat gun

this is very important the shaping never


now we want to make sure that the

plastic behind the bumper that we added

is melted in with the front so we can

use a flathead

and some heat and we're going to kind of

blend them all together

before we put our epoxy on


well once more 80 grit the surface to

smooth it out to get it ready for epoxy

well once more use a good amount of

epoxy now this is going to make sure

that the

little divots are filled and it's going

to be very strong it will not

crack we're going to put a lot on

because we're going to also sand

off a lot and we're going to use this to

shape just a little bit

use a bigger spreader if you can to make

it more uniform

so there we have it we're gonna let our

epoxy dry for about an hour and a half

and we'll come back and sand it

and keep on shaping it with some

flexible filler now the epoxy is all dry

we're gonna start with using 80 grit

just to knock it down and then we'll

move on to 180

we got the bumper off the stand so it's

in its natural state and it's not

flexing where it doesn't need to

we're still using our 80 to continue

shaping removing a lot of this epoxy

and leaving it just where it needs to be


we got most of our epoxy sanded off but

we still have some lows in some areas

and i don't want to fill it with filler

just yet so i want to use a repair

structural epoxy because it's much


and it's a better bond and use as little

filler as possible

and there we have it our last pass of

epoxy now it might seem like we're

putting a lot of material on

but remember this is a structural

adhesive meant for

bonding two pieces together and doing a


just like this we don't want to fill

this up with just straight filler

because that can crack

this is the type of stuff you need when

doing a big repair like this

and saving it from going in the trash

let's let this dry yet again

and then we'll come back and we'll sand

it and we'll fine tune it

for our flexible filler so now that it's

dry we're going to go ahead and knock it

down with 80

just to shape it out a little bit more


once you have it roughly shaped out you

can use some black spray paint

as a guide coat

then we'll switch to 180 to refine it

and further shape it out

before the flex filler

on the back we'll put some black spray

paint just to make it all one color

we're now ready to fine tune it just

touch with our polyflex filler

this is a flexible filler we don't plan

on using too much

but this is going to help us get ready

for primer and make it nice and smooth

with our filler we'll go way beyond

where we need to just to make sure we've

feathered it all out properly sometimes

it can be a little bit messy

but make sure we're doing it

horizontally long swipes are going to


better bodywork remember this has resins

in it to make it flexible

but you don't want to overdo it

it's already starting to cake up so

we'll just leave it right there so our

fillers dry for about a good 20 minutes

i'm going to knock it down with 80 and

then by hand

i'm going to start to block it out we

don't want to use a da too much

because then we can have some waves a

block is going to give us

a nice flat finish


so you see that the flexible filler only

stayed in areas that were just a little

bit low

so it's okay if we have our epoxy we

have some plastic

and we have some filler showing that's

perfectly okay we're going to have our

flexible primer

with a flex additive that's going to go

in there and it's going to

completely cover everything and it's

going to further more

give the bumper the flexibility that it

needs when it's going down the road

now the rest of this bumper has some

little divots and different

damage along the bumper so i'll go ahead

and i'll fix that up

and then we're going to go ahead and

give the whole bumper a nice

prime so we're all finished with the

polyflex flexible filler on the rest of

the bumper where we had indentations

now we have the p500 from eastwood and

we're going to use it for primer

we went ahead and we made sure that

we're mixing in

a flex additive into the primer that's

very important so it doesn't crack

when we go to put it back on we're gonna

apply three coats but i'm gonna show you

just one

now our primer's dried overnight so

we'll take 320 on a block

and we're going to start to block out

all of our areas that we worked on


the block will focus on only hitting the

highs and leveling up the surface with

the high build



we'll use a dry guide coat and rub it in

just to give us a little bit more visual


of how our body lines look then i'll

switch to a wider block

to cover more surface area using that

guide coat to show us

how the lines look

then we'll use a maroon scuff pad and

scuff stuff and some water

and we're going to go ahead and scuff

the whole entire bumper now we're going

to use 400

maroon pad because we're going to seal


the bumper is now in the paint booth and

we're ready to spray

we'll do a sealer base and clear

the base is all done looking really nice

it's time for clear coat

so we got the bumper all done and it's

looking absolutely beautiful

now let's talk a little bit about

today's episode in this episode we

repaired a

very badly damaged bumper now

the best option most likely would have

been obviously to get a new bumper

but that's not always the case depending

on the job

in this particular car it was a used car

so the profit

margins were very small so we went ahead

and we repaired it

now it is up to you to talk to the

customer and decide which gonna be the


option for you is the job here perfect

no i can find a reason on every single

job to redo it

but i gotta say it looks fantastic

that's just me being very picky in the

nature of the person that i

am so yes is there fiddler in there yes

there is

does it look good yes is it a better

repair to get a brand new bumper

100 percent but for the focus of the

bumper to show you something cool and

show you how we did it

that's what we did here and i hope you

did learn something from the video and

until next time

this is brian from paint society

reminding you

don't overthink it it's just paint let's

get it back on the car and let's check

it out